Bezel vs Prong Setting: How to Choose

A prong setting holds the stone with small metal claws and leaves most of it open to the light. A bezel setting wraps the edge of the stone in a thin rim of metal. Prongs show more of the stone and usually give more sparkle; a bezel protects the edge and sits smooth against clothing. Here is how the two compare, where a half bezel fits in and how to choose for the way you live.

How a prong setting works

Shown: Naomi Round Moissanite Solitaire Engagement Ring

Prongs rise from the head of the ring and fold over the edge of the stone at a few points. According to GIA, most round stones are held in four or six prongs, and larger stones need more of them. Because the metal touches the stone at only a few points, light reaches it from the sides and its whole outline stays visible, which is why a prong-set stone tends to look its brightest and largest.

The trade-off is exposure. The raised tips can catch on knits and hair, the edge of the stone is open to knocks, and GIA advises checking prongs occasionally to make sure they are still secure. Our guide to engagement ring settings explains four versus six prongs and the different prong tips.

How a bezel setting works

Shown: Alice Round Moissanite Bezel Engagement Ring

A bezel is a thin wall of metal that runs all the way around the stone and holds it along its entire edge. Nothing sticks up, so the ring slides in and out of pockets and gloves without catching, and the rim shields the edge of the stone from knocks. A bezel usually sits lower than a raised prong head, which makes it comfortable for everyday wear.

The trade-off is light. The rim covers the very edge of the stone, so less light enters from the sides and the stone can look slightly smaller than the same stone in prongs. The metal also frames the stone with a line of color, which reads crisp and modern, especially in yellow or rose gold plating.

The half bezel

Shown: Yasmin Round Moissanite Half Bezel Engagement Ring

A half bezel holds the stone between two curved walls of metal and leaves the other two sides open. It keeps most of the smooth, snag-free profile of a full bezel while letting more light into the stone. It also suits shapes with points: on our Darla heart ring the half bezel holds the sides and leaves the lobes and point open.

Side by side

	Prong	Bezel
How it holds the stone	At four, six or more points	Along the whole edge
Sparkle	The most, with light entering from the sides	A little less, since the rim covers the edge
Look	Classic; the stone looks its largest	Clean and modern, with a metal outline
Snagging	Prong tips can catch on fabric and hair	Smooth, nothing to catch
Protection	The edge of the stone is exposed	The rim shields the edge
Upkeep	Check the prongs now and then	Little beyond regular cleaning

Which shapes suit which setting

Round, oval and cushion stones are most often set in prongs, which show off their sparkle. Shapes with points or corners, such as pear, marquise, princess and heart, have their most fragile parts at the tips. Moissanite is hard, 9.25 on the Mohs scale, but like any gemstone it can still chip if a point takes a hard knock, so a bezel, a half bezel or prongs that cover the points are the safer choice for these shapes. A bezel also gives a step cut a sharp, graphic outline, as on our Thea emerald cut ring. Our guide to engagement ring shapes covers all nine shapes.

How to choose

• Choose prongs if sparkle and a larger-looking stone matter most, and you are happy to take the ring off for sports and housework.
• Choose a bezel if you work with your hands, wear a lot of knitwear or want a low, smooth ring you can forget you are wearing.
• Choose a half bezel if you want most of the protection with a little more light.

Think about the wedding band too. A raised prong head usually leaves room for a straight band to sit flush underneath it, while a low bezel can need a contoured or open band that curves around it. Our wedding band guide explains how to match the two.

Common questions

Is a bezel setting more secure than prongs?

Generally, yes. A bezel holds the stone along its whole edge and protects that edge from knocks. Well-made prongs also hold a stone securely, but they leave more of it exposed and are worth checking now and then.

Does a bezel make a stone look smaller?

Slightly. The rim covers the very edge of the stone and lets in less light from the sides. A thin bezel keeps the difference small.

Do bezel settings get dirty?

Every setting collects lotion and dust behind the stone. Soak the ring in warm water with a few drops of mild dish soap and brush gently with a soft brush, as our guide to cleaning a moissanite ring explains.

How many prongs should an engagement ring have?

Four prongs show the most of the stone. Six hold it at more points, and on a round stone they keep the outline looking round, while four can make it look slightly square.

Browse our solitaire engagement rings and all of our moissanite engagement rings.