Heart Shaped Engagement Rings: How to Choose One

A heart is the most openly romantic shape a center stone can take, and one of the hardest to get right. The outline only reads as a heart when the two halves match, the proportions are balanced, the stone is large enough and the point is protected. Here is what to look for, which settings suit a heart and what to wear with it.

The parts of a heart

A heart shaped stone is a brilliant cut with two rounded lobes at the top, a V-shaped dip between them called the cleft, curved sides called the wings and a single point at the bottom. Each part shapes how the outline reads: a shallow cleft makes the stone look like a wide pear, and flat wings or pointed lobes make it look like an arrowhead.

Look for symmetry

Shown: Valentina Heart Moissanite Solitaire Engagement Ring

Symmetry matters more in a heart than in almost any other shape, because the eye spots an uneven heart at once. GIA suggests a simple check: imagine a line down the center of the stone, from the cleft to the point, and make sure the two halves match in size and shape, lobe for lobe and wing for wing. The point should sit directly below the cleft.

Proportions

A balanced heart is about as long as it is wide. GIA suggests a length-to-width ratio of 1 to 1.2, and Brilliant Earth lists 0.90 to 1.10 as the most popular range for heart shaped diamonds. A lower ratio gives a wider, fuller heart; a higher one gives a longer, slimmer heart. The center stones of our heart engagement rings measure the same in length and width, from 5 x 5 mm to 9.5 x 9.5 mm, a ratio of 1.

Size

According to GIA, the heart shape works best in larger stones, at least half a carat for a diamond, because the cleft and lobes are hard to make out in a very small stone once it is set. The most common center stone in our collection is 6.5 x 6.5 mm. For a heart that reads clearly from across a room, look at the larger stones, such as the 9.5 x 9.5 mm center of our Lina solitaire, or a halo, which outlines the shape with a row of small stones.

Protect the point

The point is the thinnest, most exposed part of the stone. Moissanite is hard, 9.25 on the Mohs scale, but like any gemstone it can chip if a point takes a hard knock. A prong placed right at the point covers it: our Pia ring holds its heart in three prongs, one at the point and two at the curves. A full bezel covers the point too. Our guide to bezel and prong settings compares the two.

Settings that suit a heart

Shown: Cherie Heart Moissanite Halo Engagement Ring

• Solitaire: a single heart on a slim band keeps all the attention on the outline. It is the clearest way to show the shape.
• Halo: a ring of small stones that follows the curves and the point makes the heart look larger and sharpens its outline. A double halo goes further still.
• Three stone: side stones give the heart a frame. Straight baguettes, as on our Leila ring, balance the curves with clean lines.
• Pavé band: small stones along the band add sparkle without competing with the center.

Shown: Leila Heart Moissanite Three Stone Engagement Ring

Wedding bands for a heart

A curved band sits flush against the point of the heart. A classic straight band is also popular, though it can leave a small gap below the point. For a fully romantic stack, a band of small hearts, such as our Kiara half eternity band, repeats the shape. Our wedding band guide explains how to match a band to any engagement ring.

Common questions

What is a good length-to-width ratio for a heart shape?

Around 1, so the stone is about as long as it is wide. GIA suggests 1 to 1.2, and Brilliant Earth lists 0.90 to 1.10 as the most popular range.

Is a heart a good shape for a small stone?

Not very. GIA notes that the heart shape works best in larger stones, at least half a carat for a diamond, because the cleft and lobes are hard to see in a small stone once it is set. A halo helps a smaller heart read clearly.

How do you protect the point of a heart shaped stone?

Choose a setting with a prong right at the point or a bezel that wraps it, and take the ring off for sports and heavy work.

What wedding band goes with a heart shaped engagement ring?

A curved band that sits flush against the point, or a classic straight band, which can leave a small gap below it. A band of small hearts repeats the shape for a romantic stack.

Browse all of our heart moissanite rings and moissanite engagement rings.